Knowledge base

OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100, GOTS and GRS: Different Questions, Different Evidence

These standards are not interchangeable. Distinguish harmful-substance testing, organic textile processing and recycled-content verification before writing the sourcing brief.

DALI fabric manufacturing operations and textile production equipment

A list of logos cannot tell a buyer whether the proposed fabric or garment meets a particular requirement. Start with the claim you need to support, then check the relevant product, processing route and documentation.

OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100: harmful substances

OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 addresses testing for harmful substances in textile articles, with requirements reflecting the intended use and contact with skin. For an underwear or babywear program, the relevant article and product class matter.

It is not an organic-content standard or a factory social-compliance assessment. A certificate covering a fabric should not be assumed to cover every trim or the complete finished garment. Review the proposed article and applicable scope before using a product claim.

GOTS: organic textile processing and traceability

The Global Organic Textile Standard addresses processing of textiles made with certified organic fibres, including environmental and social requirements and supply-chain traceability. It is more than a description of the cotton input.

For a proposed organic garment, establish the required claim and the chain involved in producing it. Do not assume a fibre supplier's organic status automatically permits a finished-product GOTS label. Applicable processing, certification and claim requirements must be met.

GRS: recycled material and chain of custody

The Global Recycled Standard verifies recycled material through a chain-of-custody system and includes additional processing requirements. The certified supply route and relevant transaction evidence matter to the finished claim.

GRS does not make a garment organic, establish every performance property or prove that it will be recyclable after use. Textile Exchange is transitioning its standards system, so confirm the applicable requirements and claims policy for the planned order rather than relying on an old logo file.

Write a requirement the supplier can answer

State the product, destination, intended consumer claim and the standard you require. Then ask whether the proposed material and manufacturing route can support it. If several requirements apply, keep them separate instead of requesting a generic certified product.

Use DALI's certification portfolio to begin supplier qualification, then discuss the records and product or facility scope relevant to your proposed program. The required label and supporting documents should be confirmed for the actual material and manufacturing route.

Sources and further reading

Buyer questions

Does OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 verify organic content or factory working conditions?

No. It concerns harmful-substance testing for the covered textile article. Organic-content and social-compliance requirements need their own assessment.

Does a supplier certificate automatically authorise a finished-garment label?

Not automatically. Finished-product claims depend on the applicable standard, certified processing route and supporting documentation for the proposed goods.

Specify the claim your product needs.

Send your required standard, product category and destination market so the applicable sourcing route can be reviewed.

Discuss a certification requirement